We know what you’re thinking—Detroit? But for every time you’ve had to tell an outsider, “No, Baltimore is not just The Wire,” there are that many good reasons to visit this equally underdog yet industrious Rust Belt city that birthed such American greats as the automobile and Motown.
Detroit, like Baltimore, has somewhat of an image problem, with staggering crime statistics, streams of vacant houses, and a post-recession bankruptcy hangover. But also like Baltimore, Motor City is in the midst of a major revival, with its up-and-coming restaurants, craft co*cktail bars and breweries, and renowned arts-and-culture attractions landing the sprawling city on must-visit lists by major outlets like The New York Times.
Gritty yet cosmopolitan, bygone yet hip, it’s a city where the past and the present constantly intermingle, just like Baltimore. And with a new QLine streetcar making this neighborhood city all the more accessible (unlimited-trip day passes cost a mere $3), plus cheap flights direct from BWI (fly Spirit for as little as $80 roundtrip and less than an hour and a half each way), there’s no excuse to not make a weekend of it and support our fellow sleeper city. We see you, Detroit—and we’re rooting for your comeback.
MIDWEST BEST
We’ll say it: the Detroit restaurant scene gives Baltimore’s a run for its money. First things first—the cultish Coney Island dog. Six hundred miles from the New York beach, a fierce war wages over who makes the best chili, raw onion, and mustard-topped hot dog, which is said to have actually originated in Michigan with Greek immigrants. The rivalry between two next-door-neighbor eateries—American and Lafayette—is like the Midwest version of Baltimore’s battle for best crab cake. Locals know that Lafayette is the move for its old-school diner vibe, no-fuss wait staff, and late-night hours. (Anthony Bourdain also loves the dogs at Duly’s Place.)
Detroit-style deep-dish pizza is another local legend, with the best pies hailing from Buddy’s, near the neighborhood of Hamtramck, where they’ve been hawking Sicilian-style square slices for 72 years. Crisp, crunchy, and smothered in Wisconsin cheese, it raises the question: Chicago, who?
But it’s not all junk food (though, while we’re at it, be sure to grab a bag of Better Made potato chips, aka Michigan’s version of Utz)—trendy eateries have sprouted up across the city, too, garnering rave reviews and James Beard Award nominations. For breakfast, start at Rose’s Fine Food, a Bon Appétit-approved hipster haven on the far east side of town with faded wallpaper, charming dishware, and the best breakfast tacos this side of Texas. On your way back to center city, swing by the Beard semifinalist Sister Pie bakery for drool-worthy crusts and creative cookies such as salted rosemary shortbread and black sesame macaroons. By dinnertime, you should find yourself at Lady of the House, a Beard semifinalist for the country’s best new restaurant. Located in the Corktown neighborhood, its small seasonal menu, curated by chef Kate Williams, tips a hat to Detroit’s Irish community and keeps an eye on local sourcing and nose-to-tail butchery. Extra points for its awesome neon sign.
co*ckTAIL KINGDOM
Detroit’s hooch history runs deep. Legend has it that the city’s Prohibition-era Purple Gang used to smuggle bootleg whiskey to the Chicago mafia by way of the one-and-only Al Capone. So it’s no surprise that co*cktails remain king, with old-school and new-school haunts serving up the sort of potent tipples that would make the Mob bosses proud.
For masterful mixology, make your way to The Sugar House, a dimly lit Corktown saloon where mustachioed bartenders whip up classics such as brandy Alexanders and boulevardiers. If you can get in the door, the secretive Bad Luck Bar crafts extravagant concoctions worth every penny of their whopping price. The $25 tropical “Exoticism,” served in a brass pineapple, should be your divine drink of choice.
As you might expect, Detroit’s dive bars are also exceptional. Located on a shadowy downtown side street, the bustling Café d’Mongo’s Speakeasy is not for the claustrophobic, as barflies pack in for strong pours, wall-to-wall bric-a-brac, and gourmet grilled cheeses until last call. Don’t sleep on the first-class jukebox and tattered pool table at the Bronx Bar in the Midtown neighborhood, or the unexpectedly epic whiskey selection at the dusty Painted Lady Lounge in Hamtramck.
Looking to experience the craft booze scene straight from the source? The five-year-old Two James Spirits started as the city’s first licensed craft distillery but has quickly become a bartender’s choice the country over.Its Johnny Smoking Gun whiskey has even found its way into Baltimore co*cktail bars like the Regal Beagle and W.C. Harlan. Now touting 11 products, their Corktown tasting room is a must for samples and tours. If beer is more your speed, set up shop at one of the city’s small-batch brewers like Atwater (try the vanilla-java porter) and Motor City Brewing Works (tip back the Ghettoblaster dark ale). At area bars, we recommend other Michigan-made suds Short’s Brewing (the fruit-infused Soft Parade rye), Bell’s (Oberon wheat ale), Founders (All Day IPA), and Stroh’s (aka the Great Lake State’s Natty Boh).
